We are in Newport right now, but as the blog has got so behind, here is a diary extract from June
Thursday 24th June 2010, day 615, 11,286 miles, 39° 16’.96 N, 74° 17’.86 W. Off Atlantic City, New Jersey.
“Tah tah dahdadahda, tah tah dahdadahda … Start spreading the news, I’m leaving today …”
“Prepare the ship for sea”, and once again we are off, this time leaving behind Annapolis with the usual blend of excitement at the next destination, pleasure in the new friends we’ve spent time with, and sorrow to be leaving yet another place where we could happily have spent months.
The route this time takes us up the Chesapeake Bay, and this is where we learn that the English are quite wrong when they say with a defiant pride “We don’t have a climate, we have weather.” The English have a very variable climate. The Americans have Weather. We ran into a particularly nasty patch halfway up Chesapeake Bay. Our friends Don and MaryKay had warned us “If you see a jelly roll (Swiss roll) in the sky, reef down and get yourself to shelter.” Believe me, next time we see any sort of cake up there, we will be motoring hard for the nearest harbour, rather than reefing a bit, and carrying on, staring up at the dark charcoal swirl forming fifteen miles down the bay with slightly academic interest.
The roll grew and massed, blacker and rounder, following us up the bay. Lightning started to crackle, thunder rumbling ominously, first in the distance, then growing closer and closer to the lightning flashes: “one thousand, two thou – whew, that was close!” The storm was chasing us right up the bay, like being followed by a giant bear, growling and spitting and making wild slashes with his claws.
The VHF crackled with a message from the Coast Guard: “Severe weather warning. A severe front with associated thunder, lightning and hail storms is due to pass up the Chesapeake Bay, north of Annapolis, in the next hour. All vessels in the upper Chesapeake Bay should make for shelter immediately.” We were stuck; the shelter of Baltimore was behind us, the other side of the ever-increasing storm cloud, the Bay was still 6 miles wide, but shallow banks on either side kept us from the shelter of the trees. Shelter of the trees? Aren’t you supposed to avoid trees in lightning? Yes, if you’re a person, and much closer to the ground than the trees; no, if you’re a yacht with a 58 foot metal mast that is the only thing above wave height in many square miles of open water.
We did the only thing possible, which was to disconnect the electrics, putting all the small stuff in the oven (apparently because it swings on rubber gimbals, it provides a degree of insulation), and carry on, willing the storm to slow or deviate to one side or the other. Finally a small wooded island appeared off to port, and we picked our way over unmarked shoals to a spot as close as we dared to its shores. The storm raged away, lightning exploding behind the clouds in yellow and grey sunbursts, sometimes swinging towards us, sometimes backing away. It would have been a wonderful show if we’d been watching from behind windows in some cosy little house. Finally it grumbled away, leaving us with increased respect for American weather.
The journey through the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal, shrouded with early morning mist, and down Delaware Bay was tame by contrast, and here we are, twenty four hours later, sailing past the unlovely shore of Atlantic City, at the 3am change in watches.
The moon is shining, our destination is less than a day away, and we are dancing together in the cockpit to Anthony’s Frank Sinatra impression “… I’m gonna be a part of it, New York, New York …” Can’t wait.
Tuesday, 24 August 2010
Thursday, 19 August 2010
The second guest blog
The voyage of Tomia from Boston to Boothbay (without the Captain!)
After an invitation to join Tomia we packed our shorts and flew into Boston only to see Celia briefly at Logan International airport on her way back to the UK for a week. For the first time for 2 years without the boss onboard, Tomia set sail north and really did behave very well and we soon realised that the 1st mate was quite competent and all would be well.
There is a lovely harbour at Marblehead where there are more moorings than cars on the M25 and If there is no mooring there are some lobster pots. But we had our contacts and on arrival the club launch met Tomia and guided us to our evening stop. Ashore we met Arthur who was to be the 4th member of the crew for the week and dinner with the Burns family overlooking the harbour at The Landing was a great treat, Patty and their daughters, Genevieve and Elizabeth’s company made for a real fun evening with Shepheards pie made with lamb, now there is a surprise! However, it was by now 2am (next day) UK time for us having left home the previous 6am.
A still night and soon after a mornings guided tour of this exquisite New England village and sailing centre, lunch at the yacht club, Tomia was rearing to move onto Gloucester Harbour where it rained.
A still night before we entered Annisquam river (where Tomia very carefully negotiated under a bridge with 6 inches clearance –(it may have been 6 feet but who knows) Emerging after an hour, despite Arthurs real expectation that we would be hard aground by now, into Ipswich Bay which was shrouded in a classic Maine fog. As we sailed away from the coast the fog cleared, sailing close to whales (that is the large sea going type rather than the west coast of Great Britain – a long debate on board about the size ranging from 12 feet to 60!) was an experience and we were now off to Kittery for a rendezvous with John & Els, a charming couple who not only invited us all to dinner but had purchased some bread and milk for us to take onboard. All these contacts along the coast, lots of eating out and with his constant craving for biscuits, why is Anthony not overweight you might ask?
A still night and we were off towards Biddeford Pool, And Arthur still had not introduced us to his rum punches - yet. Ashore we surveyed the real estate and purchased our first lobster tails for the evening’s aperitif, Arthur also secreted a bottle of Moet from the local store. It was the only bottle.
A still night and then we were off again, life was getting into a routine, Arthur and Suzanne were chief ‘Pot Watchers’, this may not seem too onerous but when you hear that Maine harvests some 75.6 million pounds (circa 34 thousand tonnes) of lobster annually there are a heck of a lot of pots out there, miles out to sea, in the approaches to harbours, in the anchorages, everywhere like little bobbing fishing floats always exactly in your path. Luckily by now we were proficient pot watchers and Tomia glided into Boothbay Harbour having averaged 6 knots today with gusts of force 7, but only after we took the ghoster down Celia.
A still night. Now why do I keep referring to these, well because most unusually at anchor the nights have been so quiet and peaceful, not a lap to be heard, no halyards tapping, no wind and absolute calm. Suzanne who is not the most enthusiastic sailor thought it is always like this and for our stay it was, every night. As we were at our destination (boothbayharbour.com) it was time for more lobster and a bit of whale watching the next day before Arthur finally delved into a well stocked alcohol cabinet and proceeded to mix the rum punches..… supper, oh, did we eat as well!
The coast line varies and is wonderfully dramatic, you need to be very aware, these rocks are unforgiving. Anthony and Tomia steered us through some interesting waters, under bridges, past many lighthouses and around the islands with confidence. Tomia is just the ticket, most comfortable as R&S were afforded the luxury of the captain’s cabin. Arthur was up front with his own escape hatch for midnight deck walkabouts and Ant seemed very happy in the forward side bunks, at least he seemed to sleep well. We all enjoyed every minute with just one sadness that Celia was not with us. But we so enjoyed Arthurs company and feel we now have new friends across the pond, like minded and great company. Apart from the Gloucester shower a fine breeze and sunshine accompanied us every day with Anthony so welcoming we could all see the pleasure and excitement which has been had on this journey beginning on the Deben in July 2008 and finishing when, well who knows, don’t think quite yet somehow.
Thank you for allowing us all to share a short section of your adventure and bon voyage.
Richard, Suzanne, hairdryer – Tomia team members and we have the t shirts to prove it.
p.s. Hilton Hotel, Boston eat your heart out, give us Tomia any day and much quieter.
After an invitation to join Tomia we packed our shorts and flew into Boston only to see Celia briefly at Logan International airport on her way back to the UK for a week. For the first time for 2 years without the boss onboard, Tomia set sail north and really did behave very well and we soon realised that the 1st mate was quite competent and all would be well.
There is a lovely harbour at Marblehead where there are more moorings than cars on the M25 and If there is no mooring there are some lobster pots. But we had our contacts and on arrival the club launch met Tomia and guided us to our evening stop. Ashore we met Arthur who was to be the 4th member of the crew for the week and dinner with the Burns family overlooking the harbour at The Landing was a great treat, Patty and their daughters, Genevieve and Elizabeth’s company made for a real fun evening with Shepheards pie made with lamb, now there is a surprise! However, it was by now 2am (next day) UK time for us having left home the previous 6am.
A still night and soon after a mornings guided tour of this exquisite New England village and sailing centre, lunch at the yacht club, Tomia was rearing to move onto Gloucester Harbour where it rained.
A still night before we entered Annisquam river (where Tomia very carefully negotiated under a bridge with 6 inches clearance –(it may have been 6 feet but who knows) Emerging after an hour, despite Arthurs real expectation that we would be hard aground by now, into Ipswich Bay which was shrouded in a classic Maine fog. As we sailed away from the coast the fog cleared, sailing close to whales (that is the large sea going type rather than the west coast of Great Britain – a long debate on board about the size ranging from 12 feet to 60!) was an experience and we were now off to Kittery for a rendezvous with John & Els, a charming couple who not only invited us all to dinner but had purchased some bread and milk for us to take onboard. All these contacts along the coast, lots of eating out and with his constant craving for biscuits, why is Anthony not overweight you might ask?
A still night and we were off towards Biddeford Pool, And Arthur still had not introduced us to his rum punches - yet. Ashore we surveyed the real estate and purchased our first lobster tails for the evening’s aperitif, Arthur also secreted a bottle of Moet from the local store. It was the only bottle.
A still night and then we were off again, life was getting into a routine, Arthur and Suzanne were chief ‘Pot Watchers’, this may not seem too onerous but when you hear that Maine harvests some 75.6 million pounds (circa 34 thousand tonnes) of lobster annually there are a heck of a lot of pots out there, miles out to sea, in the approaches to harbours, in the anchorages, everywhere like little bobbing fishing floats always exactly in your path. Luckily by now we were proficient pot watchers and Tomia glided into Boothbay Harbour having averaged 6 knots today with gusts of force 7, but only after we took the ghoster down Celia.
A still night. Now why do I keep referring to these, well because most unusually at anchor the nights have been so quiet and peaceful, not a lap to be heard, no halyards tapping, no wind and absolute calm. Suzanne who is not the most enthusiastic sailor thought it is always like this and for our stay it was, every night. As we were at our destination (boothbayharbour.com) it was time for more lobster and a bit of whale watching the next day before Arthur finally delved into a well stocked alcohol cabinet and proceeded to mix the rum punches..… supper, oh, did we eat as well!
The coast line varies and is wonderfully dramatic, you need to be very aware, these rocks are unforgiving. Anthony and Tomia steered us through some interesting waters, under bridges, past many lighthouses and around the islands with confidence. Tomia is just the ticket, most comfortable as R&S were afforded the luxury of the captain’s cabin. Arthur was up front with his own escape hatch for midnight deck walkabouts and Ant seemed very happy in the forward side bunks, at least he seemed to sleep well. We all enjoyed every minute with just one sadness that Celia was not with us. But we so enjoyed Arthurs company and feel we now have new friends across the pond, like minded and great company. Apart from the Gloucester shower a fine breeze and sunshine accompanied us every day with Anthony so welcoming we could all see the pleasure and excitement which has been had on this journey beginning on the Deben in July 2008 and finishing when, well who knows, don’t think quite yet somehow.
Thank you for allowing us all to share a short section of your adventure and bon voyage.
Richard, Suzanne, hairdryer – Tomia team members and we have the t shirts to prove it.
p.s. Hilton Hotel, Boston eat your heart out, give us Tomia any day and much quieter.
Sunday, 15 August 2010
July - Boston to Boothbay
"Where have you been?" asks a friend. “There has been nothing on the blog for ages." Sorry about that, we've been rather hectic ... I went back to England to celebrate my stepmother's 80th birthday, and take my father on a trip to old friends and old haunts, and Anthony sailed on without me, in the company of his brother, Richard and wife Suzanne, and a new friend, Arthur. Arthur is "sort of family" - the sort of loose connection (his grandfather is the uncle of Anthony's daughter's husband's father) that means, when we were put in touch with each other in New York, we could both have said “thank you that was lovely” and gone our separate ways, or, as has turned out, been delighted to spend plenty of time together having fun.
Arthur and Richard / Suzanne have both written guest blogs about their time on Tomia – here is Arthur’s.
After following the adventures of Tomia for the past 2 years and living vicariously many of the great accounts of cruising in the Caribbean I finally had my chance to sail on her. Sadly, Celia could not make a planned cruise from Boston up to Boothbay Harbor, but Anthony’s brother Richard and his wife Suzanne seized the opportunity and flew over from England to join. And I was invited as well, having met Anthony and Celia a few weeks prior when they anchored at the 79th street Boat Basin in the Hudson River off Manhattan and Patty (my wife) and I shared a few NYC land-based adventures together, including an evening game at Yankee Stadium (Yankees lost).
And now I am just back from 5 days living with 3 virtual strangers in a 43 foot space. So what was it like?
Great time. Anthony, the Captain was amazing. In constant motion, moving effortlessly and unobtrusively (always barefoot) like a cat, gracefully and sure footed across the decks (even in 25 knot winds with boat heeling)--hoisting and trimming sails, furling and unfurling the head sails, setting lines (including some fishing lines), rigging and trimming a cruising chute while manipulating a heavy “spinnaker” pole , moving up and down the companionway unobtrusively to manage navigation, replace filters, replenish water supplies from the excellent Tomia watermaker and even prepare coffees for the crew. Just a normal day in the office I suppose, for someone living on board for two years. And he willingly and patiently shared his extensive knowledge of the sea, sailing and all mechanical aspects of his home, a well equipped 43 foot sailboat that felt more like 50 feet for some reason- maybe a result of the feeling of security from the center cockpit design, as well as the vessel weight and obvious stability.
The watermaker was the best bit of kit on board. An advanced filtration system allows you to draw in seawater (except in really funky harbors) and converts to fresh drinking water. At first I held onto my Poland Springs stash but after a couple of days could not resist the luxury of drinking fresh water right from the tap on board- in the heads or in the galley. Ok it’s not Evian but a fantastic convenience for cruising. As is the wind generator which can be flipped over into the water when there is no wind and magically (to me) function as a propeller, generating power underway as it turns with the rush of water.
Richard was a solid number 1 mate for his brother and a great guy as well. Also a highly experienced sailor, he and Anthony owned a 32 foot sailboat together prior to Tomia and speak the same language. Half the time I needed a translation. But it was engaging and I kept learning, as knowledge was imparted generously and patiently. Especially the anchoring. As a weekend sailor for too many years I still always opt for a mooring. Given a choice Anthony anchors. This makes perfect sense as they are free of charge and he and Richard have the skill levels to size up an unfamiliar harbor quickly and set an anchor relatively effortlessly. No sea dramas for this pair. The anchor has an all chain rode and a meter to keep track of the amount of scope let out. Very secure and convenient - no fear of dragging loose during the night!
Suzanne is also a very competent sailor with deceptively “keen” perceptions …for someone living in NYC for 40 years it came as I surprise that I (and my habits) were apparently not invisible to others. Then again it was only a 43 foot space……but who is complaining? Not I. Suzanne and Richard (and Anthony) were all easy going, great fun and we had lots of laughs and mini adventures as you might expect from a 5 day July cruise off the New England coast, from navigating through an unexpected fog off the coast of northern Mass to a more structured whale and dolphin watching tour off Boothbay Harbor (the watch boat did circles to allow the large schools of dolphins to swim, jump and surf the wake!) to the usual fresh lobster fests and even an impromptu dinner at Kittery harbor with friends of a friend of Anthony’s.
But it is the experience of cruising that I am left with ...essentially living out of doors 16 hours a day, sleeping under the stars albeit through the lens of an open hatch cover above, and slowing down as the official Tomia crew T-shirt advises, "sail fast and live slow". The exhilaration of moving along on a magic carpet over the sea, under the vast blue sky … it takes a few days to let go of habits- addictions,—the NY Times and constant background music … mainly in the head but also on the radio, on CDs, an iPod ..after a while all the noise melts away and one experiences the music and food for the soul—the harmony and routines established in living in close quarters with people of good will and equally committed to maintaining harmony by sublimating their own needs and neurosis to as minimal a level as possible … the feeling of perfect harmony when the mind finally stops rushing around for stimulus and the oft-talked about feeling of oneness with nature and the elements slowly and subtly but unmistakably sets in … the open sky, the perfect air temperature and gentle breezes, the rush of water along the hull and the vast blue ocean all around cast their spell … deep quiet … one tends to see oneself and one’s habits in a mirror as the calm and peace move in … thanks to Anthony and Celia for making this possible.
Arthur and Richard / Suzanne have both written guest blogs about their time on Tomia – here is Arthur’s.
After following the adventures of Tomia for the past 2 years and living vicariously many of the great accounts of cruising in the Caribbean I finally had my chance to sail on her. Sadly, Celia could not make a planned cruise from Boston up to Boothbay Harbor, but Anthony’s brother Richard and his wife Suzanne seized the opportunity and flew over from England to join. And I was invited as well, having met Anthony and Celia a few weeks prior when they anchored at the 79th street Boat Basin in the Hudson River off Manhattan and Patty (my wife) and I shared a few NYC land-based adventures together, including an evening game at Yankee Stadium (Yankees lost).
And now I am just back from 5 days living with 3 virtual strangers in a 43 foot space. So what was it like?
Great time. Anthony, the Captain was amazing. In constant motion, moving effortlessly and unobtrusively (always barefoot) like a cat, gracefully and sure footed across the decks (even in 25 knot winds with boat heeling)--hoisting and trimming sails, furling and unfurling the head sails, setting lines (including some fishing lines), rigging and trimming a cruising chute while manipulating a heavy “spinnaker” pole , moving up and down the companionway unobtrusively to manage navigation, replace filters, replenish water supplies from the excellent Tomia watermaker and even prepare coffees for the crew. Just a normal day in the office I suppose, for someone living on board for two years. And he willingly and patiently shared his extensive knowledge of the sea, sailing and all mechanical aspects of his home, a well equipped 43 foot sailboat that felt more like 50 feet for some reason- maybe a result of the feeling of security from the center cockpit design, as well as the vessel weight and obvious stability.
The watermaker was the best bit of kit on board. An advanced filtration system allows you to draw in seawater (except in really funky harbors) and converts to fresh drinking water. At first I held onto my Poland Springs stash but after a couple of days could not resist the luxury of drinking fresh water right from the tap on board- in the heads or in the galley. Ok it’s not Evian but a fantastic convenience for cruising. As is the wind generator which can be flipped over into the water when there is no wind and magically (to me) function as a propeller, generating power underway as it turns with the rush of water.
Richard was a solid number 1 mate for his brother and a great guy as well. Also a highly experienced sailor, he and Anthony owned a 32 foot sailboat together prior to Tomia and speak the same language. Half the time I needed a translation. But it was engaging and I kept learning, as knowledge was imparted generously and patiently. Especially the anchoring. As a weekend sailor for too many years I still always opt for a mooring. Given a choice Anthony anchors. This makes perfect sense as they are free of charge and he and Richard have the skill levels to size up an unfamiliar harbor quickly and set an anchor relatively effortlessly. No sea dramas for this pair. The anchor has an all chain rode and a meter to keep track of the amount of scope let out. Very secure and convenient - no fear of dragging loose during the night!
Suzanne is also a very competent sailor with deceptively “keen” perceptions …for someone living in NYC for 40 years it came as I surprise that I (and my habits) were apparently not invisible to others. Then again it was only a 43 foot space……but who is complaining? Not I. Suzanne and Richard (and Anthony) were all easy going, great fun and we had lots of laughs and mini adventures as you might expect from a 5 day July cruise off the New England coast, from navigating through an unexpected fog off the coast of northern Mass to a more structured whale and dolphin watching tour off Boothbay Harbor (the watch boat did circles to allow the large schools of dolphins to swim, jump and surf the wake!) to the usual fresh lobster fests and even an impromptu dinner at Kittery harbor with friends of a friend of Anthony’s.
But it is the experience of cruising that I am left with ...essentially living out of doors 16 hours a day, sleeping under the stars albeit through the lens of an open hatch cover above, and slowing down as the official Tomia crew T-shirt advises, "sail fast and live slow". The exhilaration of moving along on a magic carpet over the sea, under the vast blue sky … it takes a few days to let go of habits- addictions,—the NY Times and constant background music … mainly in the head but also on the radio, on CDs, an iPod ..after a while all the noise melts away and one experiences the music and food for the soul—the harmony and routines established in living in close quarters with people of good will and equally committed to maintaining harmony by sublimating their own needs and neurosis to as minimal a level as possible … the feeling of perfect harmony when the mind finally stops rushing around for stimulus and the oft-talked about feeling of oneness with nature and the elements slowly and subtly but unmistakably sets in … the open sky, the perfect air temperature and gentle breezes, the rush of water along the hull and the vast blue ocean all around cast their spell … deep quiet … one tends to see oneself and one’s habits in a mirror as the calm and peace move in … thanks to Anthony and Celia for making this possible.
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