11th September

Thursday 11th September 2008, day 54. 40° 39’.55 N, 008° 43’.81 W. Saõ Jacinte

Yesterday was windless and foggy, with the forecast showing more of the same, so it was a disagreeable surprise to be woken by wind gusting through the rigging, and rain pelting down. We were both lying half-awake, when suddenly we heard frantic cries from another boat close by. We shot out of our berth: someone was dragging their anchor. A quick look through the saloon windows – it was us, and we were bearing down on the boat behind, too quickly for comfort.

In that situation there is a quick balance to be struck between putting on a few clothes – and even more importantly, shoes - and averting disaster. If necessary, we would have dealt with her stark naked, but there was just enough time to throw on the minimum before shooting out of the companionway into the pouring rain. The engine started first time (whatever other troubles it’s given us, its starting has always been impeccable) and from then on things came back under control. It was a nasty shock, though, and when we came below with the anchor well dug in again, it wasn’t just being soaked through and cold that was making me shiver.

Saõ Jacinte is not much of a place. Its main attraction was that it broke our voyage to Figueira da Foz into two day-sails, and also that there is a pleasant town (Aveiro) further up the river, together with some bird-rich wetlands. But with the wind gusting strongly and the holding suspect, we didn’t want to leave Tomia for long enough to explore, so remained beneath the loom of the gas holding tanks, sunning ourselves a little in the lee of the cockpit cover.

The local shop sold chorizo, flip flops and fishing rods, so we chose the first of those for our supper, casseroled with a tin of tomatoes and some odd white beans (tremoço) that had been for sale next door to the olives, but tasted more like under-cooked lentils. Pudding was better, though, thanks to the pasteleria next door, which provided a palmier topped with an orange, almond-tasting jam, and a little custard tart for Anthony.